23:59:50 o’clock, 30 December 2006: the countdown starts for my fiftieth birthday, a birthday that will end 24 hours later with the countdown for the start of the New Year. A chilling wind blows through St. Stephens Square in central Vienna, the spot where I watch the hands of the clock move on to twelve. There is something in the air Vienna that makes my soul sing. Maybe it is not in the air, maybe it is in the earth, or maybe it is in both. It feels good to be here and stand next to the cathedral. Its tall Gothic spire seems to connect heaven and earth, the mundane and the divine creating perfect harmony, like an axis mundi. There are no firework, no crowds, no champagne (yet), just me and my shadow (it is almost full moon), by choice. I don’t feel lonely but very happy really, content with myself and turning 50/21. I do not linger for long. It is too cold and time to walk ‘home’ and sleep. Tomorrow promises to be a great day, just because I say so.
Video still: feast of colour, Vienna.
I wake up late not because of my old age, of course not! I walked all over Vienna yesterday. I can’t believe my eyes the sky is a perfect New-Zealand-blue, how amazing, how appropriate. It is not crisp or cold but unseasonably balmy +10c (50F).
Video still: Hundertwasser Cafe, Vienna.
My host Horst walks me most of the way to my first destination for the day: Hundertwasser's KunstHausWien. My rationale for the visit is that it would be the perfect day to photograph his colourful work. I enter a café in a state-housing block designed by Hundertwasser. First I watch a documentary about this unusual man who, just like me, is an artist-architect.
Video still: Hundertwasser architecture and the koru flag, Vienna.
Hundertwasser moved from Austria to New Zealand where he died some years ago. The alternative koru flag he designed for New Zealand flies on top of the KulturHaus. I suddenly realise that the essence of New Zealand has symbolically entered my birthday through his work and his connection with New Zealand. My smile widens.
Video still: filming in a toilet, but hey, it is a famous Hundertwasser toilet, Vienna.
I gather the courage to begin filming my birthday as planned. Outside KunstHausWien I approach the first of many tourists who I ask to say ‘happy birthday’ in their native language for the camera. It being New Years Eve, an unusual day of the year, people are in a festive mood and oblige.
Video still: Me being filmed filming, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
Hundertwasser was a humanistic artist and architect with an idealistic philosophy that attracted much criticism from fellow architects. They had to criticise him, otherwise they would by default agree with him and would need to start designing more human friendly environments. He did not give into their pressure to conform.
Video still: some of my party guests, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
I love his art, and admire his inspirational courage to be different and authentic. It feels so good to be in an environment created by him. His use of colour, materials, textures and organic shapes touches my Soul that responded with singing and more smiling.
Video still: opera diva, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
It is getting dark and time to walk to the ‘Silversterpfad’ (New Years Eve Path), a trail connecting 11 music stages and the many in-between sausage and sect stands. There seem to be millions of people in the streets, all determined to have a good night. This is my biggest birthday party ever, yeah!
Video still: disco diva, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
I love dancing and music. I like a variety of music that ideally would be part of any good birthday party. This year I find it all, live (!) and for free. Strauss, opera, samba, 70’s disco, and later at a private party fabulous (recorded) Balkan folk music. People let go of their inhibition and dance in the streets, what a joy to see.
Video still: dance, dance, dance, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
I film passing a bakery shop window as it reminds me of my father’s bakery. New Years Eve was one of the busiest trading days of the year and us kids always had to help out. I enjoyed those busy days generally as it turned our family and bakery staff into a hardworking well-oiled energetic team. On New Years Eve I liked it less as it always interfered with my birthday celebrations.
Video still: the Italian bakery customer, Vienna.
This bakery is packed with tourists. An Italian customer bangs his head against the shop window as he films me filming him, and we crack-up laughing. I step inside, and ask him to say happy birthday in Italian for me. He and his friends burst into a ‘happy birthday to you’ in Italian instead.
Video still: outdoor ballroom chandeliers, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
I film passing a model railway shop too, a reminder of my love for building and playing with miniature models. I still have trains, houses etc. stored in suitcases, just in case one day I might like to play again. One is never to old to play… so I like to think. This day I have a ball playing with my camera, filming people dancing and having a great time in the streets of Vienna.
Video still: a gay waltz, Vienna can handle it, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
The noise and smell of firecrackers and rockets intensifies as midnight approaches. For me they always symbolise New Years Eve and thus my birthday.
Video still:fireworks flying, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
I was born at an intersection that was the gathering point for the people in my neighbourhood after the stroke of midnight. Locals would burn their Christmas trees on a huge bonfire in the middle of the street and the tons of fireworks would fill the street with smog. I felt quite strange the first time I experienced Guy Fawkes in New Zealand, all these fireworks, yet it was not my birthday, very confusing.
Video still: samba, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
10 more seconds and… Prosit Neujahr!!! My birthday is over (lip), but the party is not. All hell breaks lose with fireworks going off left, right and centre. Champagne bottles break too, time to get out of this madhouse and go to a gay party at Eric’s house, the guy I stayed with two weeks ago. I dance to my hearts content to exotic Balkan music, not the kind of music you expect at a gay party, but I am not complaining, I love that stuff.
Video still: 21 and having a good time, Silvesterpfad, Vienna.
Seeing some familiar faces of people I met two weeks ago made up for missing all my friends and family who I would have liked to have with me today. I miss them, but that does not stop me from having the best birthday ever.
Video still: now is the hour..., Vienna.
Especially for all those who would have enjoyed sharing this special birthday with me I have included many images that I intend to turn into a little movie one day for all to see. Oh, and last but not least: happy New Year to you all. XXX, Marcel
Video still: Stephan's Platz, Vienna.